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Not since Hogarth’s time has gin been so popular.  Exports have soared to £700 million (almost trebling in the last decade) and it seems we can’t get enough of the stuff at home, polishing off more than 70 million bottles in 2019.  The supermarket shelves are awash in new brands and flavour variants are launched with bewildering speed.  But has all the innovation come at a cost?  Is gin in danger of losing its identity?  Join Master of Wine Michael Palij, co-owner of Smeaton’s Bristol Method Dry Gin, as he explores a category at a crossroads.